While slow fashion doesn’t have a hard-and-fast definition, it refers to a more nuanced, mindful way of shopping that prioritizes people and the planet. It could mean shopping secondhand, buying less, prioritizing natural fabrics, or some combination of all these things, depending on the consumer. “Slow fashion is about really understanding what your needs are and finding the best product to address those needs,” Shivam Punjya, the founder and creative director of behno, an ethical handbag line, tells mbg. “For me, slow fashion is about really thinking about your consumption,” piggybacks Bridgett Artise, a fashion professor at FIT and the designer of Born Again Vintage. “It’s about thinking before you buy and slowing down the process.” It quickly cycles through massive amounts of water, dye, oil, and oftentimes chemicals to create clothing that can be sold at a low price point but isn’t designed to last long. Then, it markets those clothes in a way that makes people want to keep buying them at a fast clip. Glitzy ad campaigns, seasonal fashion shows, and constantly changing trends have dramatically increased the appetite for new clothes over the last few decades. Since 2000, clothing utilization (the number of times a garment is worn) around the world has decreased by 36%, while the amount of clothing produced has doubled, according to a report from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation titled, A New Textile Economy. “The No. 1 issue [of fast fashion] is the amount that’s being produced,” says Artise. “The harmful chemicals that are used in production have been consistent over the years. The one thing that has changed is that we’re producing a lot more.” In order to support this increased production, some companies have cut corners in their supply chains. Millions of garment workers around the world1 now work in dangerous, sometimes deadly, conditions for meager pay. Which leads to an important point: As is the case with every tip on this list, this isn’t a matter of ticking off a box and immediately adding to your cart. Once you find an organic cotton shirt that catches your eye, for example, go a level deeper and see where the cotton comes from, how it was cultivated, and how it was processed. Remember, this is a slow process for a reason! “I always advise those interested to read about where clothes come from—about the impacts of cotton, about the supply chain of wool and cashmere, about water use in new clothing,” says Anne Whiting, the designer of Anne James NY. “Understanding the whole supply chain really opens our minds to the importance of implementing and supporting sustainable change where we can.” The world of thrifting can be a little overwhelming (as mentioned, there are LOTS of clothes out there these days), but star vintage shopper Artise recommends going in with a goal, shopping solo so you don’t get distracted, and always trying on since the sizing will be different depending on how old the piece is. When you purchase clothing, consider how you’ll get rid of it once you’re done with it. Will you send it off to be downcycled, or is it high-quality enough that you’ll be able to donate or resell it instead? Asking these questions upfront might shift what you’re buying. For example, if a company says its clothes are made in the USA, where is its factory located? Does it own the factory or share with other companies? Do the factory workers make a living wage? If these details aren’t listed on the company’s site, consider reaching out to ask. As a founder himself, Punjya can vouch for the fact that the more people write in to ask a brand questions, the more likely that brand is to make the answers public. That initial spending freeze might show you that your closet is just fine as it is. Or it might reinforce that there really are some gaps. Once you identify what those are, take your time finding pieces that can fill them, holding out for ones that you’ll want to wear again and again. Remember that you get what you pay for, and low cost usually means low quality (and low resale value). Emma received her B.A. in Environmental Science & Policy with a specialty in environmental communications from Duke University. In addition to penning over 1,000 mbg articles on topics from the water crisis in California to the rise of urban beekeeping, her work has appeared on Grist, Bloomberg News, Bustle, and Forbes. She’s spoken about the intersection of self-care and sustainability on podcasts and live events alongside environmental thought leaders like Marci Zaroff, Gay Browne, and Summer Rayne Oakes.
