This class of ingredients is most often found in two types of products: anti-aging creams (or healthy aging, as we like to call it) and barrier support. Once you dig into what they do, that’ll make perfect sense. Here, our guide to peptides in topical skin care. When used topically, they act as messengers for the skin, says board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D.: “Neuropeptides act as chemical messengers. In the skin they can be synthesized by keratinocytes or endothelial cells [which will, in turn, strengthen the epidermis, or skin barrier], or they can be released into the skin from nerve endings. They can act by modulating the release of neurotransmitters,” she says. Put simply, “When you apply it topically like in a serum or moisturizer you are telling your skin to create more collagen,” says New York City–based esthetician Taylor Worden. And as Nava Greenfield, M.D., board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City, notes, their use so far is indeed promising—even if she acknowledges there’s still more to learn. “In the cosmeceutical space, we have little to work with in terms of products that can truly provide even minimal benefit in reversing some signs of aging, protection from collagen and elastin breakdown, and even encouraging collagen and elastin buildup,” she says. “Ingredients developed small enough to penetrate the skin yet strong enough to be effective at skin rejuvenation are exciting, and peptides have demonstrated potential as a possible ingredient to help the skin in exactly that way!” At the moment, these are the “most helpful” peptide ingredients on the skin care market says King: Additionally, the exact benefit you’ll get from a peptide product depends on the types used. Of course, check out the rest of the INCI list (aka the ingredient list) to make sure there aren’t other ingredients that may trigger a reaction for your skin, and do a patch test prior to using. Again, this warning is especially true if you have sensitive skin, known skin irritants, or have an inflammatory skin condition. postbiotic body lotion, mindbodygreen ($30) Hydra-Plumping Peptide Serum, Celestine ($45) Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream, SkinFix ($52) Protini Polypeptide Cream, Drunk Elephant ($68) Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide, Kiehl’s ($62) 10 + 10 More-Sturizer, iNNBEAUTY PROJECT ($34) If you plan to layer your peptide product with something else, just follow the general skin care step guidelines, which are as follows: face wash, toner, serum, cream, oil, and SPF. Most peptide options are going to fall in the serum or cream slot, and if it’s the latter, you may consider adding another active ingredient underneath in the form of a serum. For example, you may try an antioxidant serum topped with your peptide lotion. If so, just be careful to introduce the products one at a time so your skin has time to adjust to each new product. Given peptides are used for their collagen-building benefits, one idea is to use them alongside other collagen-boosting ingredients. Vitamin C and E serums are some of our favorites as the antioxidants are a vital part of the collagen synthesis process. Not only is it necessary for stimulating internal collagen production, but it also helps stabilize existing collagen8 levels in the skin, essentially protecting all the hard work from the peptides. However, another route to take is to find a product that contains peptides along with other actives, such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, or coenzyme Q10. (See some of the products above!) This way, the formula is made in such a way that the two ingredients work together—and you have less concern about the ingredients interacting negatively.
