Luckily, there are treatments out there that can do just that. Microblading and microshading are two forms of permanent makeup and ways to make your brows look fuller for the long haul, but which one should you choose? Here’s the 101, from brow experts. “Most people use an electric tool that is handheld and has a small needle; it’s used to make very small cuts,” he explains. On occasion, manual tools can be used, but most often electric tools are preferred. Microblading is a common practice used for anyone who wants fuller brows—whether someone lost their brows after chemotherapy, overworked them over the years (hint: post-’90s brow era), or wants a baseline to make the fill-in process a bit more straightforward. The finished look is, simply put, a filled-in brow—just as you may have done yourself. The benefits? “It’s a quick solution to waking up and not filling in your brows,” Healy says. Different approaches will deliver different finished looks, one of which is micro feathering—where a manual tool is used. “This is more of a marketing term,” Healy says. “It’s essentially microblading with a lighter touch,” he continues. Some techniques like the Nano Brow by New York City–based brow expert Karolina Bula produce a look that resembles a natural full brow. Or, you can get a base outline of the brow to make your fill-in process easier. “This is where I think it succeeds its best,” Healy says. Sometimes a bit of powder on top can create a more natural look. This treatment should be done by a licensed esthetician or brow expert with appropriate training. The regulations for this procedure vary depending on where you are, so do your research, look at reviews, and consider having an initial consultation with an expert or two to ensure their work aligns with your goals. “A second pass is great for adding more fill and strengthening pigment for long-lasting results,” she continues. So if your brows don’t look how you want them to after the first session, don’t fret—the second round will top them off. This will make your brow look like powder has been placed overtop since you’re not seeing the fine lines that come with microblading. Some people prefer this softer look to one that is consistent with hairlike strokes—so it’s all about personal preference. Depending on your goals and the pro’s practice, it may take up to two sessions but generally not more than that. Finally, microshading tends to be less painful than microblading, Healy notes. This is because the pigment is delivered in dots, not strokes. If you filled in your brows with a pen or brow pencil to create hairlike strokes and didn’t use any sort of powder or soft pencil, then microblading may be for you. Also, if you’re working to fill in large gaps of hair or create a fully new brow from the start, then this method may be the best fit. What’s more, if you still want to fill in your brows a bit each day to suit your fancy, then microblading can create a base structure and outline for you to play around with. If you tend to use a soft powder to fill in your brows with a powder or soft pencil, then microshading will mimic that look. If you have oily or sensitive skin, then this one is a better fit for you as well. Plus, if you’re looking to completely abandon doing your brows after this, then microshading is the way to go. In the same vein, microshading tends to last longer, which means less frequent touch-ups. And if you’re not sure how you want your brows to look in general, consult a brow specialist before committing to one or another. You can also play around with different brow products at home and see what checks the box. Your brow expert will help you map out which areas can benefit from each method and show you a few different options before you commit to one. Remember—your brow specialist wants you to love your look just as much as you do, so be honest with yourself and your expert about what you’re looking for and what you’re trying to avoid. So don’t skip this step—do your research, ask around, look up photos on Instagram or online, and have a consultation before committing. While this may seem like a pesky list of to-do’s, it’s worth it to feel confident in your brows and make it worth your money. Before you go in for your microblading or microshading appointment, there are a few things to note—which your pro will tell you. Here are the basics: If your skin is currently more sensitive due to medication like isotretinoin or you’re actively receiving chemotherapy, it’s best to avoid these treatments and consult a medical professional to find out if and when you may be able to go forward with it. Although this is rare, some people may have sensitivity to the dye used in some microblading and microshading treatments, so ask your expert what’s best for you and consider doing a patch test first. That being said, your brows are on your face and directly contribute to your physical appearance and thus can impact your self-esteem. If your brows make you feel insecure and these treatments may help—go for it. “For some people, microblading and shading can be a truly life-altering gift,” Holmes says. “I have some clients with alopecia who have greatly benefited from these treatments because they simply can’t grow brow hair,” she continues. So to sum up, microblading and microshading might not be ideal for your brows—but that’s OK. If this treatment will make you feel more confident and contribute to your overall happiness, then more power to you. On that note, if you are struggling with your mental health, coupling this treatment with therapy can be a great way to work on self-esteem from the inside and the outside.
