But armed with the right information, pro tips, and products, you’ll be on the right track. Here, our guide for caring for curly hair. So as we dive into the nuances of how to care for curly hair, it’s important to know the fundamentals of your hair. While it’d be simpler for curls to be categorically exclusive and stagnant, most people have several patterns on their head—and they may even change depending on the environment or with time. Want help deciphering your own curl pattern at this moment in time? Take our curl-type quiz. The spectrum of porosity ranges from low to high. Low porosity hair will mean the cuticle is tightly packed, which means the hair fiber doesn’t easily absorb moisture but will take longer to try when wet because it holds on to water it does have. High porosity means that the cuticle is loosely packed, so product is faster absorbed and in turn, dries out easily. Hair density will influence your hair care routine, too. “The density of the hair is determined by how close your hair strands are to each other,” says celebrity hairstylist Ryan Richman. “This, in turn, determines how thin or thick your hair appears.” For those with low density, you may look for volumizing products; whereas those with high density will need more smoothing and control. Overall curl care is one of my favorite topics in beauty: It took me a long time to figure out how to best care for my hair, and so I love talking to professionals and other people about what they do and recommend. Every curl journey is unique, and I love hearing about them all. Here, some of the best advice straight from the professionals: However, there are best practices for deciphering your ideal wash schedule, and generally those with curly hair should wash less. Because of the curl pattern, it takes longer for the natural oils on the scalp to reach the ends of the hair fiber. When you wash it too frequently, you’re continually resetting your oils back to square one (the root), so they never have time to actually make it to the ends. Now exactly what “washing less” means in practice is entirely up to you and is likely influenced by many other factors. However, just know that if you wear your hair curly, stretching the time between shampoos will help keep the strands conditioned. It’s also important to note that when we say wash less, we mean don’t use shampoos. If you need to rinse between shampoos, you certainly can. “I want to emphasize that wetting, rinsing, and or conditioning the hair daily is not equivalent to shampooing. Shampooing is when a specific cleaning agent is applied to the hair or scalp for hygienic purposes,” says trichologist Bridgette Hill. If you want more guidance on how to craft your shampoo schedule, Hill provided her go-to tips: Curly hair is naturally dryer and more prone to breakage, so you need to pick very delicate cleansers. Think of it like your skin: If your skin was prone to irritation, you’d switch to a gentle cleanser, right? Well, the same applies to your strands! The good news is there are many excellent sulfate-free shampoos on the market. Look for options that are further buffered with hydrating ingredients like botanical oils and butters: Excellent options include shea butter, coconut oil, oat oil, and so on. Co-washing (or conditioner-washing) can also help keep the hair clean—while hydrating in the process. “The idea is to use conditioner, though not just any conditioner, as a replacement for shampoo. An ideal co-wash very gently cleanses the hair using mild surfactants, while a typical shampoo uses more concentrated surfactants that really work to deeply cleanse the hair,” says Sunny, owner of Lumiere Vive Salon. If you decide to incorporate co-washing (an excellent idea), do so alongside the occasional shampoo session for a deeper clean. This can help you avoid buildup and scalp irritation. “It’s very important to deep cleanse your hair; it’s just that many times it may not be necessary as frequently,” notes Sunny. Being too rough during the detangling process can mean breakage and other kinds of physical damage, such as split ends. To avoid that, thoroughly coat the hair with a detangler. Detanglers create a physical barrier around the hair fiber to protect it during the combing process. If you want to detangle in the shower or when the hair is already wet, a conditioner can also do the trick. Then when you go to detangle, always start at the bottom and work your way up in small sections. Starting at the top is a recipe for pulled hair and shedding. “Conditioner’s role is to increase the moisture content of the hair and improve its elasticity, smooth the cuticle, and soften the hair fiber,” writes Sarah Roberts, a hair consultant and author of You and Your Hair: The Ultimate Healthy Hair Masterclass for Afro Textured Hair in a previous story about the types of conditioner. And because curly hair naturally struggles with hydration and elasticity, it’s a vital step in caring for the strands. If you have fine hair or are conditioning frequently, opt for something with a lighter consistency—anything too thick has the potential to weigh the curls down. Those with fuller coarse hair will want something very thick such as a conditioning mask. And anyone with damaged strands should use a protein treatment about once or twice a week. “Leave-in products provide extra moisture to the hair, help protect it from damage, and help detangle those fabulous curls,” says hairstylist Millie Morales. “I love that you don’t need to wash out because having a nice smell all day is magic.” A small lesson as to why: Hair fibers are actually held together by hydrogen bonds. These hydrogen bonds can be broken down by heat and other chemical processes. For example, when you flatiron your curls, the bonds are broken down and manipulated so the hair appears straight. They can then be “reset” by water (which is why your curls spring back when wet). However, when they are continually manipulated, it can erode these bonds resulting in damaged hair and lifeless curls. This is not to say that coloring, chemically altering, or heat styling is a hard no—however, it is to say that it requires more care and attention when you do it. “It’s not that these are off-limits,” says board-certified dermatologist and curl expert Raechele Cochran Gathers, M.D. “Just be smart about your use of your flat irons, hairdryers, or curling wands. Ultimately learning how to use these is more important than not using them altogether.” “Sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase, head scarf, or cap, which allows hair to slide as you toss and turn while sleeping. Silk and satin prevent friction—which leads to hair pulling, tugging, stretching, breaking, and tangling—and these smooth fabrics help retain the hair’s natural oils,” says Branch. But the benefits of silk don’t stop there: It is hypoallergenic, antimicrobial1 moisture-wicking, and breathable. And when styles start to fall flat, a curl refresher or mist of water can help curls spring back. “You can use a spray bottle or mister,” says Morales. “Fill that spray bottle with water, and mix in a little leave-in conditioner for extra hydration to your curls during the week! Try not to go too crazy with the amount you put in the spray bottle, just enough to get a cloudy mix.” If DIY isn’t your thing, there are plenty of curl-refreshing sprays that you can utilize, too. “The serum gives the strands a silky, polished appearance, while the mousse adds volume and defines curls without weighing them down,” says Morales. “Or another great mix is coconut oil and styling gel, as it allows supreme hold without leaving your curls crunchy and dry.” If you’re more into layering, one popular routine is the LOC method. The LOC method simply refers to a layering technique—leave-in (or liquid), oil, and curl cream—so you can sub in any products you please. “For me, the LOC method is something you do whenever you’re doing a wash-and-go curly style,” hairstylist Anthony Dickey, founder of Hair Rules, once told us.
