The sauce is salty from the soy sauce but not overpoweringly so because there is an equal amount of sake that gives it some sweetness and bright acidity, all elevated by the pungent, earthy aroma of the perilla. The recipe below produces a silky, creamy tofu that is completely different from packaged silken tofu, no matter the brand. We’re talking soft, smooth, and so fluffy and light that it just slips down your throat, with the fresh, vivid sweetness that comes from good soy milk. Note that this tofu will stay pillowy and soft only for the first day it is made. As you keep it in the fridge, the tofu “sets” and becomes denser. It is perfectly good to eat for up to three days after it’s made, but make sure it is in a tightly sealed container because tofu will pick up other aromas very easily. Photo by Kristin Teig