In short: There’s a lot to tackle here. So your first step is to identify what might be causing your skin tone concerns and treat that underlying cause (we explain several treatments below). The good news is that many of these help tend to a variety of issues; simply find a remedy (or remedies) that work for your needs. Chemical exfoliation usually involves two of the major kinds of acids, alpha and beta hydroxy acids. AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid, work by breaking down the bonds between skin cells, thereby helping them shed faster. These are also more hydrophilic, meaning they are more hydrating. “They can be simultaneously exfoliating and hydrating, making them very beneficial to many skin types,” says board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, M.D., BHAS, like salicylic acids, work by dissolving oil and lipid bonds and tend to be better for those with oily skin. You can find these acids in serums, peels, masks, and washes. Vitamin C goes far beyond collagen, however. Using vitamin C topically has been shown to help overall quality and tone by diminishing hyperpigmentation1, brightening2 complexions, decreasing moisture3 loss, helping reduce skin inflammation1, and fighting against UV-induced photodamage4. Bonus: It’s good for all skin types, and most people find it tolerable. “Vitamin C is one of the few active ingredients that can benefit all skin types,” says Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D., board-certified dermatologist in the Washington, D.C., metro area and associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University Medical Center. First up: Retinol spurs collagen production: “Retinol binds to retinoid receptors within skin cells,” says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. This “activates genes that upregulate collagen production.” Second, it also increases cell turnover at the cellular level. “Besides stimulating production of new collagen, retinol enhances cell turnover,” says Zeichner. “This means it sheds dead and damaged cells that make the skin look dull.” And while retinol thickens the lower layers of the skin, he says, it thins out the top layer (the stratum corneum), which creates a dewy glow. Retinol, however, tends to have less tolerability, although modern formulas are usually more gentle and sophisticated. Adding one to your routine usually takes an adjustment period where the skin may experience peeling, flaking, redness, and dryness. Some with highly sensitive skin are never fully able to tolerate the ingredient, while others will do so quickly. “Arbutin is a naturally occurring compound in the leaves of a variety of plants, including pear trees and the bearberry plant, that prevents the formation of melanin,” says board-certified dermatologist Keira Barr, M.D., noting that the overproduction of melanin in certain areas is what makes up dark spots and melasma patches. “It functions as a tyrosinase inhibitor to provide skin-brightening effects. This happens because when your skin and these cells come in contact with UV light, the tyrosinase enzyme is activated. Arbutin blocks this.” Arbutin is the natural and safe alternative to the controversial hydroquinone (an ingredient still somewhat used as a skin lightener). Those who wish to brighten skin should look into this ingredient. There are plenty of soothing ingredients to choose from. A few other holistic skin care favorites are turmeric5 (i.e., curcumin), plant oils6 (i.e., olive, argan, safflower, sunflower oils), centella asiatica7 (i.e., gotu kola), comfrey8, and hemp or CBD. (Read more about ways to reduce inflammation here.) Inflammation, we know, is also internal. So be mindful of what you are consuming, as certain foods can trigger inflammation in the skin—particularly those with a high glycemic index. Physical sunscreens are those made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (often a combination of both). They block the UV rays from penetrating the skin cells by sitting atop the skin, acting as a shield of sorts. Here are our favorite physical sunscreens for the face that work for any skin tone. This will also ensure you are supporting your skin barrier function, a vital part of skin health. A compromised skin barrier not only has practical implications (“It protects us from mechanical injury, low humidity, cold, heat, sun, wind, chemical exposure, bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other pathogens,” explains board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., stating that, “a healthy barrier is critical to normal skin function”), but it has aesthetic ones, too. Check out these all-natural moisturizers or clean skin care products.
