This is especially true of exfoliation. Scrubbing, peeling, and sloughing off skin cells can be an incredibly satisfying thing—and often comes with impressive results. But going overboard is extremely harmful to skin and can have some pretty serious repercussions. “The most important tip is that ’less is more.’ You want to exfoliate just enough to increase cell turnover and reveal fresh new skin,” says Ife Rodney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology. “But be sure to not scratch or damage your skin by overusing these devices or products.” OK, but let’s put it into numbers, shall we? “Most people with normal or combination skin can get away with twice or even thrice-weekly exfoliation,” she says. “Those with more mature, dry, or sensitive skin, may only want to exfoliate weekly.” For example, masks that target oiliness, clogged pores, or acne usually contain an exfoliating agent of some kind (including but not limited to clay, charcoal, AHAs, BHAs, and physical scrubbers). Consider these as exfoliants, even if they’re not directly marketed as such. And don’t forget that glycolic and lactic acid serums are chemical exfoliators, and thus should be used in moderation—especially if they contain potent doses. (Some serums will have low enough concentrations of gentle acids that it’ll be fine with daily use, but ultimately that will be up to the individual.) Many face washes contain chemical and physical exfoliators, be it salicylic acid or micro-particles. While some will be able to tolerate these daily (or even twice daily), for most we recommend using these only a handful of times a week and using a more gentle cleanser the rest of the time. “Exfoliation can improve skin circulation, encourage skin turnover, and improve the absorption of certain skin care products. Exfoliation can help brighten dull skin and might even help in conditions like acne,” says Cochran Gathers. Another issue is that you can exfoliate too much initially and then need to take a break to let your skin come back to baseline. “Over-exfoliation can strip the skin of its natural oils, which can lead to more breakouts, irritation, redness, and inflammation of the skin,” says Cochran Gather. If you are experiencing any of these after introducing a new treatment, product, or device, consider easing up for a while until you go are able to slowly reintroduce it. The only thing to remember here is that you shouldn’t conflate a body exfoliator and face exfoliator. “Body exfoliators shouldn’t be used on the face. They are often thicker in consistency and contain higher concentrations of acids and could be too irritating for delicate facial skin,” says Cochran Gather. “Likewise, using a facial exfoliation on your body may not be strong enough to give you the results you’re looking for.”
