Allow us to say it up top: Coconut oil simply does not work well for some people, especially on the face. But for others, oh, does it work like a charm. Here’s exactly how to tell if coconut oil is right for you and how you should slather it on for the best results. One fatty acid in particular—lauric acid—has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties; it’s even been shown to kill 1Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes)1, which is the bacteria that leads to inflammatory acne (note: Since the study in 2009, P. acnes has been recently renamed Cutibacterium acnes2, or 2C. acnes2). Additionally, coconut oil is super moisturizing3: Research shows it can help increase moisture levels in the skin4 (it has an occlusive effect, meaning it seals in hydration), as well as improve skin barrier function5—perhaps that’s why those with eczema flares and psoriasis typically find it so skin-soothing6. Finally, some research suggests the thick oil can even boost collagen production7. It’s no wonder people have been slathering on coconut oil for centuries. But if your skin is in dire need of some moisture, simply slather on coconut oil after cleansing (“Be cautious in mixing it with other serums or moisturizers, as it can be too greasy,” notes Wong), and let it seep into your skin as you sleep. You might want to avoid tossing and turning that night, lest you transfer all that oily goodness onto your pillow. If you’re feeling fancy, she suggests sprinkling in a few other ingredients like turmeric or maca powder. The DIY world is your oyster, here. Although, “If you decide to use it as a cleanser,” says esthetician Tami Blake, founder of Free + True, “make sure to double cleanse and follow up with a gentle gel or cream cleanser or warm towel to remove any leftover oily residue.” Just massage the oil in circular motions wherever you wish to melt makeup (be gentle on the eye area), and rinse with warm water before reaching for cleanser. Especially for those who suffer from lip eczema, coconut oil itself is a wonderful natural ointment; as you may know, the best remedies for eczema tend to have a minimal ingredient list (as extra ingredients can risk triggering even more irritation). Coconut oil, it turns out, is a single-ingredient wonder that’s perfect for alleviating any painful flares. You can either combine the oil with other good-for-you ingredients for a DIY confection or stick to straight coconut oil and call it a day. Simply warm up a scoop between your fingers before swiping it on your lips. Bonus: The natural oil sheen helps your pout look juicy, too. So let’s say you have normal-to-dry skin. Is coconut oil a must-have? Again, it’s not so simple: “The only way to know if virgin coconut oil works for your skin is to experiment,” says Blake. Try one of the aforementioned uses above, and see how your skin reacts. If your skin feels dewy and healthy, feel free to stock up on versatile coconut oil. If you face breakouts, perhaps opt for a lightweight, noncomedogenic oil like jojoba, argan, grapeseed8, or sunflower seed oil. At the very least, look for unrefined (or virgin), organic coconut oil. According to board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness, this means it’s made from fresh coconut and is able to retain the antioxidants and anti-inflammatory benefits. You may also want to look for brands that are fair-trade certified and non-GMO. However, reaching for a virgin version may depend on your skin type: Virgin coconut oil is solid at room temperature (it contains saturated fats) and has a much heavier weight. That’s why, according to Blake, it can sit on the skin and clog pores. Rather, if you have any fractionated coconut oil on hand (it stays in a liquid state, as the process removes the long-chain fatty acids), it can penetrate the skin more easily and may lead to fewer breakouts. “Compared to raw coconut oil, which can feel oddly greasy and dry on the skin, fractionated coconut oil soaks in quickly and does not leave an oily feeling on the surface of the skin,” natural skin care expert Sarah Villafranco, M.D., founder of Osmia Organics, tells us about the types of coconut oil. Of course, sourcing is still important—no matter the type of oil, make sure it’s certified to USDA-standards. If your skin runs especially dry, you might fare well with moisturizing coconut oil every single day. If you have oily, combination, or acne-prone skin, you might want to use sparingly (if at all) or only apply on very chapped areas. Remember: Coconut oil can be comedogenic. But if your skin needs the heavy-duty moisture, by all means, carry on daily. Perhaps the confusion stems from coconut oil’s hair-healthy properties; since it has a low molecular weight9, it’s able to penetrate easily into the hair shaft and absorb better than other common oils. So it effectively moisturizes the strands, rather than sitting on top of them—and keeping hair happily moisturized is key for supporting faster growth. But no oil causes hair growth, per se, no matter how hydrating and antioxidant-rich it may be. So while coconut oil can help moisturize the strands you already have (which can support beard growth, if that’s what you’re after), it won’t have you sprouting brand new facial hairs. Might is the operative word, here: There are no studies yet to show that coconut oil can improve under-eye circles in particular—but its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties could potentially help soothe the area. However, coconut oil may be too heavy for the under-eye skin. Too-heavy creams and oils can trap keratin in the pores and cause tiny white or yellow bumps (known as milia), which is common where the skin is thinner—like around the eyes and lips. Again, it depends on your individual skin’s needs. “Keeping the skin well moisturized will help reduce the appearance of any lines,” board-certified dermatologist Jeremy Fenton, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC and Long Beach, New York, tells us about managing neck wrinkles. Coconut oil also has some purported benefits for cell turnover and collagen production, which could help enhance skin texture. Additionally, coconut oil has been shown to block 20% of UV rays10—considering 90% of visible signs of aging can be attributed to UV exposure11. That’s no reason to toss your proper sunscreen, but it does show how coconut oil can potentially help delay the onset of fine lines.
