The differences lie in the amount of time the two processes take, how and where they’re done, and what their end results are. “One of the biggest advantages of vermicomposting is that worm compost often has a much higher nutrient content than traditional compost,” adds Matt Eddleston, a gardener with over 20 years of experience and founder of Gardening Vibe. Composting also requires more physical activity because you need to layer the compost pile and turn it often, about once a week. It usually needs to be done outside and can be difficult when the weather turns in colder months. Vermicomposting has more flexibility when it comes to weather and space requirements. You can keep your worm bin anywhere where temperatures aren’t too extreme, indoors or outdoors. “You can do it indoors in an apartment, even when you don’t have a lot of space,” says Eddleston. “A worm bin fits easily in the corner of a room.” You can either buy a pre-constructed vermicompost bin or make your own using the following easy and inexpensive technique. “Purchase the appropriate species from a supplier for your area rather than collect worms from your yard,” Angelo Randaci, Earth’s Ally master gardener and horticulture expert, suggests. Yes, worm suppliers exist! The type of worm you buy from them will largely depend on your climate, but here are a few good options to look into: If you’re wondering if it’s possible to combine different worm species in one bin, the quick answer is yes—but there can be caveats. According to Randaci, over time one type of worm may dominate. “If conditions are better for one species than another, that species will multiply faster,” he says. Feeding worms is one of the most important parts of the process, but you’ll need to pay attention to what and how much you’re offering them. Worms can eat a variety of organic materials including fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and tea bags. But you’ll want to avoid citrus fruits and peels since they’re acidic and worms have a difficult time digesting them. You shouldn’t add any animal or dairy products to the bin, either. In addition to food waste, your worms will also eat their bedding. “Your worm bedding is also food for worms. You want to have a higher content of bedding than food waste,” says Randaci. When you buy your worms, you should get information on how much they eat. Follow it closely; the key to maintaining your bed is making sure it has the right amount of food (and therefore, moisture) at all times. When the system is out of balance, you’ll be able to tell pretty quickly. “If you overfeed [the worms], then the excess will rot, causing a bad smell,” explains Eddleston. “Rotting and heat buildup can occur and even kill the worms,” adds Randaci. Moisture can also build when you overfeed. According to Randaci, “You add moisture every time you add food waste because of the high water (80% or more) content of the vegetable.” If you notice that food isn’t being eaten by the worms or the bin has a bad odor, you’ll want to hold off on adding more scraps. He suggests keeping enough bedding in the bin to make it easy to bury the food waste. “Don’t drop the scraps on the surface,” he says. “Instead, clear a space to put them in. Then cover them well with dirt and moist paper.” When she’s not writing, she enjoys spending time in her garden, experimenting with ingredients in the kitchen, or spending time by the ocean. See her portfolio on her website.
